Introduction
Nestled on the picturesque Fife Coast, less than 20 miles from Edinburgh, Aberdour Castle and Gardens makes a perfect day trip from the capital city. It is a good option for anyone exploring the small Fife villages straddled along the Firth of Forth. It stands as a testament to Scotland’s rich history and how family fortunes were buffeted by our often-turbulent past. After nearly 30 years of exploring every corner of Scotland, I finally crossed Aberdour off my castle list.
History and Architecture of Aberdour Castle and Gardens
Aberdour Castle, with its roots tracing back to the early 1100s, has undergone a remarkable evolution. It mirrors changes in architectural trends and the fortunes of its owners.
Early Foundations
Sir Alan Mortimer, the first family member to hold the barony in the 1120s, is believed to have commissioned the keep.
Originally constructed to serve the dual purpose of providing secure accommodation and a symbol of strength. Aberdour Castle's initial structure includes the remains of a two-storey hall-house. Built with ashlar (square-cut stone), its construction resembles that of the nearby St Fillan's parish church. Dating to the mid-1100s, both showcase the Norman influence in their construction.
Transition to Tower House
In 1325, Robert the Bruce granted Aberdour to his nephew, Thomas Randolph, Earl of Moray. This marked the beginning of a series of transitions. The castle passed hands to Sir William Douglas in 1342. He was known as 'The Flower of Chivalry,' What a moniker to have! His descendants later became the powerful earls of Morton and lords of Dalkeith.
During the 1400s, the Douglases elevated the hall-house into a typical Scottish tower house. Subsequent generations witnessed the addition of further impressive stone structures, gradually replacing the family quarters within the original tower house.
The Douglas Earls of Morton
It served as the residence of the Douglas Earls of Morton, a formidable family with influence in Royal Courts. The 4th Earl of Morton, appointed as "Regent of Scotland" in 1572, played a pivotal role in Scottish history. However, his tenure was marred by scandal. Morton later faced execution for alleged involvement in the murder of Lord Darnley, the husband of Mary Queen of Scots.
During his regency, the 4th Earl of Morton embellished Aberdour Castle, adding ornate terraced gardens inspired by Renaissance France. This period of opulence came to an end in 1578 when Morton lost his position as Regent. Subsequently, his implication in Lord Darnley's murder led to his execution in 1581.
Architectural Transformations
The central range, added to the tower house's earlier structures, marked Aberdour's transition from a primarily defensive fortress to a domestic residence. With three storeys, it remained linked to the accommodation in the tower house.
In the 1630s, the 7th Earl of Morton, now the Lord Treasurer of Scotland, constructed the east range. This L-shaped extension, now the only complete part of the castle, housed modern family accommodation.
Aberdour Castle's architectural journey stands as a testament to the ebb and flow of Scottish history, reflecting the shifts in societal norms, domestic preferences, and the ever-changing fortunes of its distinguished occupants.
Top Things to See During Your Visit to Aberdour Castle and Gardens
- The East Range: This is the last major addition to the castle, with the entire first floor taken up by a gallery. In a side room, you will find a precious painted ceiling. After all these years the ceiling is badly faded. You can still make out the colours of the fruit and flowers depicted. There is a handy blanket and torches, so you can lie on the floor and gaze upwards. In my case, this was a somewhat undignified manoeuvre.
- The Terraced Gardens: Walking through the roofless ruins of the original tower house, then through a stone doorway, I wasn’t prepared for what was outside. The south-facing terraced gardens came as a real surprise and demonstrated how Aberdour was once a grand residence. We only get an inkling of how impressive they once were. When the castle was occupied and the gardens blossomed and bloomed they would have reflected the power of Regent Morton.
- The Doocot: If you can’t quite see that the terraced gardens were a sign of power the doocot at their edge was. It remains an impressive structure housing 600 stone nesting boxes for pigeons. At one time it was the ultimate status symbol. Maybe it's a bit like owning a Ferrari today. And the construction and ownership of a doocot was carefully regulated by the King. Old legends say that if you destroy a doocot then it will be followed by the death of the lady of the house within a year. Is that why it stands intact all these years later?
- The Walled Garden: I must admit I love wandering around a walled garden. In many ways, these were the heart of a castle providing fruit and vegetables for the kitchen. The acre of land, enclosed within towering 4m high walls, only hints of this importance as it is mostly laid out to lawn today.
- St Fillan’s Church: Explore the neighbouring 12th-century St. Fillan's Chapel, adjacent to the walled garden. It is not within the care of Historic Environment Scotland. I mistimed my visit as it had already closed by the time I wandered into the kirkyard. But even when closed you can enjoy looking at the old gravestones, many carved with skulls and crossbones. A constant reminder that one day we all die.
Outlander Filming Location
Having told you a wee bit about the history of Aberdour Castle it would be remiss not to talk about its modern use. Aberdour steps into the limelight as a key filming location in Season 1 of Outlander. Transporting viewers to the Benedictine monastery, Abbey Ste Anne de Beaupre, the castle sets the stage for a pivotal moment in Jamie and Claire's tumultuous journey in the season finale.
In the TV series, Aberdour Castle takes on the role of the Abbey, where Jamie recovers from the harrowing injuries inflicted by "Black Jack" Randall. While Dragonfly in Amber places the Abbey on the north coast of France, the adaptation for the screen brings this crucial scene to Scotland. Claire tends to Jamie within the historic walls of Aberdour Castle before they depart from Scotland.
FAQs
How to Get There
Aberdour Castle is conveniently located and easily accessible. If you're driving, follow the M90 and A921 roads. The castle is also accessible by train, with the Aberdour railway station a short walk away. The easiest place to park is in the village car park next to the station.
Is Aberdour Castle Suitable for Families?
Absolutely! The castle's grounds provide ample space for children to explore, and the rich history can be both educational and entertaining.
Can you visit all year round?
The castle and gardens are open throughout the year. However, during the winter months, it operates on reduced days and hours. It is within the care of Historic Environment Scotland, so check the official website for details before visiting.