Welcome, fellow travellers and adventurers! Today, we embark on a journey to the picturesque village of Glenfinnan, nestled in the heart of the Scottish Highlands. Many flock here to glimpse the iconic Hogwarts Express chugging over the Harry Potter Bridge. Wait! Stop right there! It’s not the Harry Potter Bridge or the Hogwarts Express! I don’t mind Harry Potter fans calling the bridge or the steam train by those names, but it is the Glenfinnan Viaduct and the Jacobite Express.
There is much more to discover in this enchanting corner of Scotland than a boy wizard and a train full of fictional schoolchildren. Join me as we go beyond Potter and delve into some lesser-visited gems that await you in Glenfinnan.
1. The Jacobite Exhibition at NTS Visitor Centre:
Our first stop takes us to the National Trust for Scotland Visitor Centre, where the importance of Glenfinnan in Scottish and British history is explained in the free Jacobite Exhibition. Discover the tumultuous era of Bonnie Prince Charlie and learn about the Jacobite uprising that started right here in Glenfinnan. The Jacobite rebellion of 1745-46, led by Prince Charles Edward Stuart, known as Bonnie Prince Charlie, was an attempt to restore the exiled Stuart dynasty to the British throne. Through interactive displays and informative exhibits, gain insights into this pivotal chapter of Scottish history that changed the Highlands forever. My exhibition highlight is the model diorama of the Glenfinnan Gathering and the raising of the Stuart Royal Standard. If you look closely, you will spot a wee Highlander having... well, a wee!
2. Climb to New Heights: Visitor Centre Viewpoint:
For panoramic views that will leave you breathless (in more ways than one), make your way up to the visitor centre viewpoint. You will find the way signposted up the rocky hillside footpath immediately behind the centre.
It is a straightforward walk uphill, taking around 10 minutes, but it is an uneven path in places. As you ascend, let your eyes wander along the length of Loch Shiel and its surrounding mountains. Loch Shiel holds historical significance as it was along these waters that Bonnie Prince Charlie sailed accompanied by his loyal ‘Seven Men of Moidart’.
On the loch shores, the prince raised his standard at the beginning of the 1745 Jacobite Rising. From the summit viewpoint, there is an excellent view of the entire curve of the Glenfinnan Viaduct in the distance. Capture this awe-inspiring landscape in photographs or soak in its beauty while contemplating the Scottish history that unfolded in the remote Highlands.
3. Up Close with Engineering Marvel: The Glenfinnan Viaduct:
Prepare to be awestruck as you stand before the magnificent Glenfinnan Viaduct. This architectural marvel stretches across heather-clad hills and gracefully spans over 1,000 feet. So many visitors come here for the steam train without looking closely at this testament to Victorian engineering ingenuity. It was constructed between 1897 and 1901 by the engineer Sir Robert McAlpine, who used new concrete pouring techniques. These techniques were so cutting-edge in making large civil structures. Sir Robert soon earned the nickname “Concrete Bob”.
Take a moment to appreciate the skill and hard work of creating this masterpiece. A great photo is stood below the central arch, looking upwards. It’s 100 feet high. When I am on the train with my tour guests, just as we pass over the viaduct, I tell them that no metalwork is holding up the bridge. There are no steel girders in any of the pillars. It’s entirely made from poured concrete. How’s that for a feat of Victorian engineering that has stood for over 120 years? The viaduct continues to carry regular trains on the West Highland Line between Fort William and Mallaig.
4. Wander the Glenfinnan Viaduct Trail:
On a busy day, the hillside above the viaduct is crowded with hundreds of visitors trying to get the ultimate photograph of the Jacobite Express crossing over. I prefer to turn my back on them and stroll along the Glenfinnan Viaduct Trail. You won’t walk far before you are alone, enjoying different scenic views around Glenfinnan. There are helpful information boards along the trail about the history, views and local wildlife.
The trail takes you under the railway tracks and back up the other side to Glenfinnan Station. It’s a small Victorian countryside station painted smartly in beige and green. It’s a far cry from the dingy railway stations you’ll encounter in our towns and cities.
5. Step back in time at Glenfinnan Station
Take a moment to explore the museum, run by a local charitable trust and housed in the original station building. The small exhibition shows how the spectacular railway line between Fort William and Mallaig was built. You can climb up the steps and stand in the restored signal box with all the old-fashioned levers.
If you are hungry, you can experience the charm of bygone rail travel in the dining car behind the station. No plastic-wrapped limp sandwiches and dishwasher-strength coffee are served here. There’s scrumptious home baking, and other dishes use local ingredients wherever possible. They even smoke their produce in-house. Try the special fries topped with home-smoked cheddar. If you eat in the dining car, you are entitled to free entry to the station museum. Just ask the staff for your ticket.
You might be tempted to stay a little longer and sleep in the converted 1958 carriage, now a quirky place to rest your head. The Sleeping Car provides hostel-style accommodation.
6. Uncover Spiritual Beauty: The Pugin Church:
If you continue around the Viaduct Trail or wander on the pavement alongside the main road, you will discover the hidden gem of Glenfinnan's Pugin Church. Designed by renowned architect Edward Welby Pugin, this Gothic masterpiece is a testament to the fusion of faith and artistry. Edward is the son of his more well-known father, Augustus, who designed the interior of the Palace of Westminster and the famous clock tower housing Big Ben. Yet Edward continued in his father’s Gothic Revival footsteps, building over 100 Catholic churches and cathedrals across the UK and Europe.
Step inside, and you find intricate stained glass windows, ornate woodwork, and a serene atmosphere that envelops you. You can enjoy that serenity by sitting outside and looking out from the church’s elevated position to take in Loch Shiel and the surrounding mountains. It’s a perfect spot for a moment of quiet reflection.
7. Reach for the Sky: The Glenfinnan Monument:
For those seeking the best view in the area, ascend the steps of the Glenfinnan Monument, dominating the skyline of Loch Shiel. This towering tribute commemorates those who fought for the Jacobite cause in 1745. Erected in 1815, the monument stands 18 metres tall and offers spectacular views of the surrounding landscape. Remember, you must climb a spiral staircase before a short ladder takes you through the hatch onto the viewing platform. From there, you have the sweep of the surrounding countryside around you. The monument is open for a limited time each day, so booking a slot online before arriving is best. Tickets are available here.
There are bonus points for those who can translate the Gaelic and Latin inscriptions around the enclosure wall before looking at the English version.
8. Tranquility by Loch Shiel:
Sometimes, we genuinely connect with our surroundings in moments of stillness. At the height of summer, Glenfinnan is a busy place. But you can find solace in Loch Shiel's tranquil shores as you sit back and gaze along its waters. Breathe in fresh Highland air, listen to gently lapping waves, skim stones across the surface and relish in uninterrupted moments of peace amidst this idyllic setting.
Conclusion:
As our journey through Glenfinnan comes to a close, I hope you've discovered that this magical corner of the Scottish Highlands offers much more than just a glimpse of the Hogwarts Express. From delving into history at the Jacobite Exhibition to marvelling at the engineering feats of the Glenfinnan Viaduct, from exploring spiritual beauty in the Pugin Church to reaching new heights at the Glenfinnan Monument, and finally, finding tranquillity by Loch Shiel—Glenfinnan invites you to embark on a slower adventure. It will cast a spell on you that isn’t the wizarding kind.