In the bustling heart of Glasgow lies an almost hidden place that offers an escape into a world where time seems to stand still. Here, art and architecture blend seamlessly with the tradition of afternoon tea. Mackintosh at the Willow, situated on Sauchiehall Street, is more than just a tea room. It's a testament to Glasgow's surprisingly rich cultural heritage. It’s a sanctuary for those seeking tranquillity amidst the city's hurly-burly.
Mackintosh at the Willow is easily missed
Sauchiehall Street is no longer the fashionable shopping street it once was. Today, it is eclipsed by the top brands and boutiques along Buchanan Street. Sauchiehall Street has seen better days and has a down-at-heel feel. Yet, it remains a busy place. Amongst the clutter of high street shop signs, Mackintosh at the Willow is easily missed. Most people walk past without giving it a second glance. But stand back, and the building immediately stands out as something different. The unassuming black door only hints at what might be discovered inside.
A Journey Through Time
Mackintosh at the Willow is a proud reminder of Glasgow's golden age of innovation and design. Designed by Charles Rennie Mackintosh in collaboration with his wife, Margaret MacDonald, in 1903 for Miss Cranston, this architectural marvel was more than just a dining place. It was part of an artistic movement.
Kate Cranston, nearly always referred to as Miss Cranston, played an instrumental role in shaping these tea rooms and their concept. As an entrepreneurial local businesswoman from Glasgow and daughter of a tea merchant, she believed strongly in temperance. The movement gained popularity during that era. Miss Cranston envisioned creating art-filled spaces where people could gather to relax and enjoy non-alcoholic refreshments. It sounds very austere, dour and joyless. You can imagine Presbyterian ministers' pulpit-bashing extolling simple tea's virtue.
Yet, Cranston created something that certainly isn’t dour or joyless. The success of MacKintosh’s initial work designing murals for Miss Cranston’s Buchanan Street Tea Rooms led to further collaborations. He was commissioned to work across all four of her establishments. His attention to detail extended beyond interiors; he even contributed to exterior architecture treatments. However, his commission to completely design the proposed new tea rooms on Sauchiehall Street became his most iconic work for Miss Cranston—the Willow Tea Rooms.
The Salon de Luxe: A Luxurious Space
One of the most breathtaking spaces within Mackintosh at the Willow is the Salon de Luxe. Positioned on the first floor, overlooking Sauchiehall Street, this room was designed to be the tea room's main attraction. Its vaulted ceiling and full-width curved bay window create an atmosphere of grandeur and elegance.
The restoration efforts between 2014 and 2018 ensured that the Salon de Luxe was faithfully refurbished to recreate its original colour scheme. Reproductions of Mackintosh's signature high-back chairs now grace this magnificent space, allowing guests to immerse themselves in its timeless beauty.
As you step into the Salon de Luxe, you are immediately enveloped in a sumptuous colour scheme of grey, purple, and white. Every detail has been meticulously crafted to create a luxurious ambience. You can imagine ladies chattering over the clink of teacups as their husbands retreated to the billiard room upstairs. There are highly polished bells on each table. They are there to summon a waitress with a gentle tinkle. Have I ever rung the bell? Of course!
Restoration and Revival
Between 2014 and 2018, extensive restoration took place to bring Mackintosh at The Willow back to its former glory. This painstaking process involved meticulous research and attention to detail to preserve every aspect of Mackintosh's original design.
At the beginning of this year, there was a risk that Mackintosh at the Willow would close its doors forever. However, thanks to the intervention of the National Trust for Scotland with support from the National Lottery Heritage Fund, this architectural masterpiece has been given new life.
Today, under the care of the National Trust for Scotland—the custodians entrusted with preserving Scotland's heritage—Mackintosh at The Willow continues to captivate visitors. It serves as a tea room and an educational resource where people can learn about Glasgow's artistic legacy and the visionary work of Charles Rennie Mackintosh. When I recently visited, I spotted a group making stencilled fabric panels inspired by Mackintosh designs.
Afternoon tea at Mackintosh at the Willow
Beyond its architectural significance, Mackintosh at the Willow offers an exceptional dining experience. Afternoon tea here is not merely about sipping tea; it's about savouring history one bite at a time.
Having had the pleasure of experiencing afternoon tea at MacKintosh at the Willow, I can attest to the culinary delights that await visitors. Opting for their traditional afternoon tea package priced just under £30 per person, my family and I were treated to a feast for our eyes and taste buds.
Tea began with a selection of finely cut sandwiches, which were dainty enough to whet your appetite but left plenty of room for the sweet delights. Traditional scones accompanied by clotted cream and jam followed suit.
But it was upon setting eyes on the assortment of cakes presented on the elegant three-tiered stands that we truly felt like royalty. Each cake was a mini-masterpiece — meticulously crafted. My favourite was a chocolate-coated peanut parfait with cocoa nibs on top. My son gave thumbs up to the fairy pink raspberry mousse with poached rhubarb. His face darkened when I ate my one, as he thought he could snaffle it in addition to his own.
A bewildering choice of teas
To complement our delightful spread, we were presented with an extensive menu featuring an array of teas from around the world. From Scottish chai—a malty black tea infused with warming spices—to Russian caravan—a smoky blend that pays homage to historic tea trade routes—each sip was a journey.
The attentive waitstaff ensured our teapots were always full, allowing us to explore different flavours at our leisure. The price includes unlimited refills; you can mix and match your tea choices. Whether we chose French Earl Grey's floral notes or traditional breakfast tea's robust richness, the experience was unhurried.
How to visit Mackintosh at the Willow
If you wish to experience Mackintosh at the Willow, booking afternoon tea is best. However, if tea isn’t your thing, you can enjoy lunch. The lunch menu offers light bites such as soup and toasties or more substantial dishes such as fish and chips or Balmoral chicken. There is also a kids’ menu, including a smaller version of the afternoon tea.
Booking a table online well in advance of your visit is advisable. This is a popular place with both locals and visitors. The main tearooms and gallery are open every day. The Salon de Luxe offers champagne tea from Thursday to Sunday at 2 pm.
Daily guided tours are available
But you don’t need to eat here to enjoy the art and architecture. There are two guided tours each morning that will take you around all the main spaces in the building. The tour includes the Salon de Luxe and the Billiard Room on the top floor. The latter is now used for events and private dining. I’ve eaten there several times with tour groups, and seeing this more masculine room is worthwhile. Booking is essential for these tours as they are limited to 6 people.
There is also a separate paid-for exhibition that tells the story of Glasgow when the tea rooms were built. It features information about the doughty and remarkable Miss Cranston, who was so successful in a male-dominated city and world.
Of course, there is an obligatory gift ship. Disappointingly, this has been reconfigured since the National Trust for Scotland takeover. Previously, it prominently featured the teas you can sample in the adjacent tea rooms. These are now relegated to a couple of shelves. They are so incognito I almost gave up taking home some tea to remember my visit.
Conclusion
Mackintosh at The Willow is more than just a historical monument. It is a legacy of Glasgow’s cultural renaissance. It is a place where art meets life amid teacups and tranquillity, offering an escape from the hustle and bustle.
Whether you’re drawn by its architectural beauty, the fascinating history of Miss Cranston and Charles Rennie Mackintosh, or the culinary delights that await, Mackintosh at The Willow should be part of any visit to Glasgow. promises an experience like no other—an oasis of calm beckons visitors to explore Glasgow’s soul one sip at a time.
As we navigate our busy lives, places like these remind us of the importance of slowing down. I am all in favour of not rushing through any visit, preferring to pause and appreciate. It’s a lesson I am sure Miss Cranston would have taught us over a hundred years ago when she first opened her doors to welcome weary travellers searching for refreshment and repose.