Glencoe is a place forever etched on Scottish history. The bloody and brutal massacre of a Highland clan is burned on our country’s collective national memory. This tragic event took place during the politically tumultuous late 17th century in Scotland. It serves as a stark reminder of how power struggles among clans can profoundly affect the lives of ordinary people. On the cold night of February 13, 1692, this betrayal unfolded in Glencoe.
To delve deeper into the events leading up to and the aftermath of the Massacre of Glencoe, I encourage you to watch my YouTube video specially crafted for Scotland's Year of Stories 2022. The video unravels the shocking sequence of events that hurtled towards murder under trust. And it is filmed within the glen itself, where the massacre unfolded.
Annual Massacre of Glencoe Commemoration:
Each year, on the sad anniversary of the massacre, Glencoe becomes a gathering ground for people from around the globe. Many Clan Macdonald members, connected by blood and shared history, join together in a poignant commemoration. A memorial service takes place in the small St Mary’s Church at the heart of the village. Afterwards, everyone gathers at the Bridge of Coe as the skirl of pipes and beat of drums fills the air. They then march to the Massacre Memorial. Here prayers are said in Gaelic and English before wreaths are placed beneath the monument. The occasion's solemnity is a poignant way to connect with the past and honour the memory of those who perished.
Five Must-Visit Sites in Glencoe:
There are several visitor hotspots in Glencoe - the Three Sisters viewpoint, the Meeting of the Three Waters and Loch Achtriochtan. I often wonder how many stopping for their must-do selfie know anything about the glen’s dark history. Photos taken they hop back in the car and drive on. As a local tourist guide, I am passionate about sharing the haunting and captivating story of the Massacre of Glencoe.
Rather than speeding through the glen, I recommend slowing down. Explore these places and you will discover and understand an important event in Scottish history.
Glencoe Museum:
Begin your journey at the Glencoe Museum. This is a community-run museum housed in a turfed cottage on the village’s main street. The ‘Massacre Room’ is a recreation of a typical MacDonald home on the night of the massacre. The exhibition sheds light on the human stories that unfold within the broader historical context of the Massacre.
[Feb 2024: the museum is currently closed for a multi-million redevelopment and will reopen in 2025]
Massacre Monument:
The Massacre Monument is hidden away at the edge of the village. There is parking alongside the road before you get to the bridge. From there it’s a five-minute walk along a single-track road. Maybe, that’s why so many miss this poignant commemoration. More often than not, I am the only person there when visiting. The monument stands as a silent witness to the tragedy, surrounded by the beautiful landscapes of Glencoe. An 18-foot granite carved Celtic cross shoots upwards from a rugged stone cairn. A cairn is a traditional symbol of remembrance in the Highlands. It is a stark reminder of the lives lost and the enduring spirit of remembrance. As the monument's inscription concludes “Their memory liveth for evermore”.
The Turf House:
A recent addition at the National Trust for Scotland visitor centre is a reconstructed turf house. Entry to the visitor centre is free of charge. Head out the back and you will find this evocative dwelling framed by the mountains beyond. Stooping through the low doorway below a turf roof you immediately smell peat smoke. Close your eyes and imagine you are living here in 1692. Can you hear the whispers of army soldiers discussing their orders to slaughter their hosts?
Built using archaeological evidence and traditional skills the building offers a glimpse into the living conditions of the time. It enhances your appreciation for the resilience of the Highland communities.
Signal Rock:
Venture to Signal Rock, a vantage point with a view that once played a pivotal role in signalling danger. Local legend tells us this was the gathering place for the MacDonalds. Likewise, it is suggested that this is the spot where the signal to commence the massacre was given. There’s no real evidence to support the claim. Surrounded by trees today it is hard to imagine it as a signal station. But head back over 300 years with trees removed and the rock would command views up and down the glen. It’s a straightforward, and pleasant walk, from the car park off the A82 or the Clachaig Inn. The Walk Highlands website has a full walk description.
Hidden Valley:
It’s marked on the map as Coire Gabhail. But is usually called the Hidden Valley, or the Lost Valley. And it’s one of the best hikes in the area, that doesn’t take you to the mountain summits. A rocky path winds alongside a tumbling river in a steep-sided gorge. Ascending the path, you'll encounter a massive rockfall, a geological relic from ancient times, which obstructs the valley's view from the glen below. This is why the valley had its evocative name
This natural fortress served the MacDonalds as a secret hideaway for their cattle stolen during clan raids. Beyond the rockfall, the valley soon opens out into a wide, flat-bottomed glen. The perfect place to hide your grazing cattle. But also an unintended refuge during the Massacre of Glencoe in 1692. Written accounts tell how families fled murder in the glen to seek refuge here. Some would have died from exposure in the depths of winter. Others survived to tell the tale we remember today.
Conclusion:
As we wander through the haunting landscapes of Glencoe, the echoes of the Massacre reverberate. It reminds us of a tumultuous past that shaped the course of Scottish history. The betrayals, alliances, and enduring clan spirit are woven into the very fabric of this rugged terrain.
The five must-visit sites – Glencoe Museum, Massacre Monument, Turf House, Signal Rock, and the Hidden Valley – offer different insights into historical events. us to empathize with the lives affected by the events of 1692. Some standing at these historical landmarks will think of their Scottish heritage. Others will gain a greater understanding of the bloody event that attempted to irradicate an entire clan.
Remember, history lives within these hills, waiting to be explored.
Safe travels
Go on your own Glencoe journey
For a personalized and immersive exploration of Glencoe's history, consider booking me for a private tour. Whether you're on-site in Scotland or connecting virtually, my tours and talks cater to history groups, families, and all curious minds eager to explore Glencoe. If you would like to find out more drop me an email: andrew@glen2glen.com