Scotland is a land rich in history, culture, and breathtaking landscapes. Among its many storied families, the Marquesses of Bute stand out for their remarkable influence and contributions to Scottish heritage. Their story is intertwined with the Industrial Revolution. They opened up the coalfields of South Wales. The Butes capitalized on the growing demand for coal, establishing Cardiff as a vital port and amassing a fortune that would finance an array of architectural marvels across Scotland. This wealth elevated their status. And it allowed successive generations to indulge in their passion for building, restoring, and contributing to various projects across Scotland.
Hereditary Keepers of Rothesay Castle
Rothesay Castle is a stronghold on the Isle of Bute. It has an unusual circular design and a surrounding moat. As hereditary keepers, the Butes have been instrumental in preserving this medieval castle.
Restored by the 3rd Marquess of Bute between 1872 and 1879, the castle came under state control in 1951 and is now managed by Historic Scotland. However the courtesy hereditary title of ‘Keeper of Rothesay Castle’ remains in the Stuart family. There is a story of Lady Isobel who lost her life in resistance to Viking invaders. Her ghostly presence lingers on the ‘Bloody Stair’.
Mount Stuart – Isle of Bute
Perhaps no other place embodies the Butes' legacy as vividly as Mount Stuart. This neo-Gothic mansion is a testament to Victorian opulence and innovation. With its stunning marble hall and astronomical ceiling, Mount Stuart offers an unparalleled peek into the lifestyle and interests of one of Scotland’s wealthiest families.
The 3rd Marquess, fuelled by vast wealth, infused his fascination with astrology into the extravagant features of his grand home. The term "extrovert" perfectly encapsulates the unique decor that defines Mount Stuart. As you explore the house, you'll uncover the Marquess's bold personality, revealing a man unapologetically indifferent to public opinion.
From the grand scale of the mansion to the meticulous attention to detail, Mount Stuart reveals something around every corner. Unfortunately, the Marquess did not live to see the completion of this enormous project, succumbing to a stroke at the age of 53. His wife took up the mantle, continuing the building work, leaving a few details, like carvings on pillar tops, unfinished even today—an intriguing reminder of the mansion's complex and unfinished history.
Falkland Palace - Fife
Once a favoured retreat for Scottish royalty, including Mary Queen of Scots, Falkland Palace was extensively restored, thanks to the vision of the 3rd Marquess of Bute.
In 1887, the Marquess added Falkland Palace to his restoration endeavours. Collaborating with the eminent Arts and Crafts architect John Kinross, the duo aimed for scholarly restoration. They blended conservation with meticulous reconstruction based on archaeological evidence. The result is a harmonious blend of the original fabric and new restoration.
Bute's commitment to excellence is evident in his choice of craftsmen. To maintain authenticity, he established workshops in Cardiff, producing metalwork and furniture that seamlessly embodied the essence of the period.
The conservation efforts at Falkland Palace continued into the mid-20th century when the National Trust for Scotland, in collaboration with the 3rd Marquess' grandson, Major Michael Crichton-Stuart, took charge as Deputy Keeper. This partnership led to essential works such as re-roofing the South Range, renovating the painted ceilings of the Chapel Royal, and undertaking stone masonry repairs.
Dumfries House – Ayrshire
Dumfries House is another home of that extraordinary man, the 3rd Marquess of Bute. He is a key figure in the Dumfries House saga. Inheriting the estate at just six months old, he developed a deep love for the house, referring to it as the "homeliest of all his homes."
From 1760 to 1993, Dumfries House remained a cherished family home. After Lady Eileen, Dowager Marchioness of Bute, the last full-time occupant, passed away, the house faced an uncertain future. Facing a sale to foreign buyers, a consortium led by Prince Charles successfully purchased the house. In doing so, saving it for the nation, along with a significant collection of Georgian Scottish and English furniture.
Bute House and Charlotte Square - Edinburgh
Situated in Edinburgh's prestigious New Town, No. 6 Charlotte Square is famously known as Bute House. Today, it is the official residence of Scotland's First Minister. The 4th Marquess of Bute bought Nos. 5,6 and 7, adding them to the Bute family's property portfolio. A row of elegant Georgian residences, designed as one private home. The house transformed in 1966 when it became an official state residence under the stewardship of the National Trust for Scotland. The adjacent properties were all part of the Bute holdings. No. 7, is open to the public as the Georgian House.
Bute Educational Philanthropy
Education also benefited from the Butes’ generosity. St Andrew’s Medical School received support, enhancing medical training facilities in Scotland. Graduates from the University of Glasgow collect their degree certificates at a ceremony within Bute Hall. Gifted by the 3rd Marquess, Bute Hall is a grand setting for examinations and ceremonies. If you look carefully Bute is the first name that appears on the Commemorative Gates standing at the entrance to the university campus. The gates celebrate the university’s 500th anniversary and significant figures throughout its history.
St Kilda - North Atlantic
When Earl Dumfries, later the 5th Marquess of Bute, found himself with spare cash in 1931, he embarked on a unique purchase – the windswept and uninhabited islands of St Kilda in the North Atlantic. His ambition for the island was to transform it into a bird sanctuary, reflecting his lifelong enthusiasm for ornithology. Despite the era's common practices, which included shooting birds and collecting eggs, rather than just binocular spotting, the Marquess's passion extended to conservation.
Upon his passing in 1956, St Kilda was bequeathed to the National Trust for Scotland. Under their stewardship, the islands earned recognition as a designated National Nature Reserve, marked by ongoing conservation efforts, scientific research, and the protection of its unique ecosystems, including significant seabird populations. St. Kilda achieved UNESCO World Heritage Site status in 2005, acknowledging its contributions to natural heritage, marine environment, and cultural landscape preservation.
National Museum Of Scotland – Edinburgh
I was unaware of this final Bute connection until researching this article. So many times I’ve walked through the entrance of the modern extension of the National Museum of Scotland. I’ve stood on its roof terrace gazing out across the skyline of Edinburgh. Little did I know the driving force behind this building was the 6th Marquess of Bute.
As Chairman of the Trustees of the National Museums of Scotland, he secured funding for the revolutionary west extension to the museum. In the face of fierce opposition from Prince Charles, who held strong anti-modern architectural views, the Marquess stood firm, ensuring the project's progression. Overcoming the challenges posed by Prince Charles' vocal opposition to new buildings, the irony unfolded when the new National Museum of Scotland was officially opened by none other than Charles' mother, Her Majesty the Queen!
Conclusion
From medieval castles and palatial estates to educational institutions the Bute family left their mark on Scotland. This was a family making their money outside Scotland in the dangerous and dirty coal mines of South Wales. Black gold had a profound impact on both the family's fortune and Scotland's heritage. They created places of grandeur and architectural brilliance. These are destinations we can still enjoy today for their beauty and as a snapshot of times past.