Welcome to the extraordinary world of Mount Stuart, the ancestral seat of the Marquess of Bute. This opulent Gothic palace not only exudes grandeur but also harbours an abundance of enthralling tales and concealed treasures. My visits to this remarkable place always reveal something new. These are my Mount Stuart highlights. Let me guide you through the gothic dream of a remarkable man.
Delving into History: The Crichton-Stuarts' Coal Legacy
Before we embark on our exploration, it's essential to grasp the historical roots of Mount Stuart. The estate dates back to the industrious pursuits of the Crichton-Stuarts, who amassed their wealth through coal mining in South Wales. Their shrewd investments extended to the establishment of Cardiff Docks, facilitating the transportation of coal across the British Empire during the Industrial Revolution. Mount Stuart is a building that evolved from a coal-fueled fortune to a Gothic masterpiece.
The Visionary 3rd Marquess of Bute
Mount Stuart owes its majestic existence to the visionary mind of the 3rd Marquess of Bute, a polymath whose diverse interests left an indelible mark on this Gothic masterpiece. Renowned for his multifaceted pursuits, the 3rd Marquess was not merely a patron of the arts but a scholar with a keen interest in science, languages, and astrology.
His passion for science manifested in Mount Stuart's architecture, where innovations like central heating, telephone cables, and electric lights in every room showcased his forward-thinking approach.
Languages were another area of the 3rd Marquess's expertise, evident in the library's vast collection spanning various tongues and cultures. But astrology held a special place in the 3rd Marquess's heart, influencing the celestial masterpiece of Mount Stuart's astrological ceiling. A map of stars, adorned with glass crystals and accompanied by stained glass windows depicting zodiac signs, attests to his fascination with the cosmic realms.
The Neo-Gothic Marvel: A Grand Entrance
As you step into Mount Stuart, the main entrance unfolds before you in all its regal splendour. You are welcomed by the friendly house guides, who will tell you everything you might want to know. Yet, this entrance means you miss the full effect of this quirky neo-Gothic masterpiece.
Mount Stuart, initially a Georgian mansion, underwent a significant transformation following a catastrophic fire that swept through the building. Despite the devastation, the decision was made to salvage the surviving Georgian wings, anchoring them as a historical foundation. To resurrect the grandeur of Mount Stuart, a visionary redevelopment ensued. A swirl of Gothic towers and pinnacles emerged between the retained Georgian wings, creating the breathtaking amalgamation of architectural styles we see today.
Take a stroll across the expansive lawn stretching between Mount Stuart and the sea. From here you will see the entire facade. I recommend getting this view before you enter the building and start your tour.
The Marble Hall: A Symphony in Stone
Prepare to be mesmerized upon entering the Marble Hall. It’s a soaring space that stands at an impressive 80 feet tall. Comprising over 20 types of marble, this majestic hall is a testament to the Marquess's penchant for architectural extravagance. When informed that it would cost an extra £20,000 if granite was used, he simply replied “...but which would look better?”
Astrological Wonders: A Celestial Ceiling
Look up, and be prepared to be enchanted by Mount Stuart's astrological ceiling. Adorned with a map of stars crafted from glass crystals, the vaulted ceiling creates a celestial spectacle. Stained glass windows depicting each zodiac sign and its corresponding season add a colourful touch. The clever use of sunlight brings the celestial masterpiece to life, transforming it into an ever-changing canvas. You may be tempted to lay on the marble floor below and gaze upwards. And I wouldn’t blame you. However, you can get up close with great views from the first-floor balcony.
The Whimsical Horoscope Room: A Wooden Wonderland
Intricate wooden carvings grace Mount Stuart's interior. For me, it’s these small details that bring the house alive. The Marquess even established workshops in Cardiff to undertake the work. Bringing together different craftsmen, it wasn’t just woodwork manufactured there but also metalwork and plaster fittings. Among these treasures is the Horoscope Room, where the bed features carvings inspired by the tales of Reynard the Fox. Find a fox playing a psaltery lulling the marquess to sleep, a badger with bagpipes awakening him, and a noble lion in a nightcap hovering above.
The Spired Marvel: Marble Chapel
Beneath the spired tower of Mount Stuart is the Marble Chapel, the tallest structure on the estate. It is an ethereal space with rose pink light refracted through stained glass windows onto bone-white marble. The chapel hosts weddings and also community events like Christmas carol services. The Cosmati flooring is reminiscent of Medieval Italy and is influenced by the Sistine Chapel and Westminster Abbey.
The Bute Collection: A Historical Trove
Beyond its architectural marvels, Mount Stuart houses a world-class historic collection. With over 27,000 volumes in its historic libraries, there are rare treasures to be found. These include early printed books and unique embroidered book bindings. Among the prized possessions are first editions of Robert Burns's works and even one of Shakespeare's First Folios.
War-Time Sanctuary: World War One Military Hospital
During the tumultuous era of World War One, Mount Stuart transformed into a military hospital. Rooms that once echoed with opulence were converted into wards and operating theatres, providing crucial care for wounded soldiers.
The Purple Library served an unexpected role as an x-ray room, providing a unique twist to its literary solitude. Meanwhile, the Dining Room, Drawing Room, and Marble Hall transformed into medical wards. Upstairs, the Conservatory functioned as a makeshift operating theatre.
Remarkably, these spaces witnessed 2060 operations, ranging from 38 appendectomies to 14 amputations and the meticulous plating together of 28 bones. Among the medical records lies the intriguing note of the removal of two testicles, a detail that sparks curiosity and raises hopes that such procedures were not all performed on a single patient.
Botanical Paradise: Exploring the Gardens
No Mount Stuart journey is complete without wandering through its sprawling 300-acre gardens. Set against the picturesque Firth of Clyde, these grounds boast globally significant arboricultural and horticultural collections. From vibrant rhododendron blooms in spring to golden birch trees in autumn, there is something to see in every season. One of my favourite places is the newly restored glasshouse with its exotic plants.
Visiting Mount Stuart: A Journey Through Time
If you're eager to step into the grandeur of Mount Stuart yourself, follow this guide to plan your visit:
Location and Access:
Mount Stuart sits on the Isle of Bute in Scotland. Reach the estate by ferry from Wemyss Bay or Colintraive. On the island, follow signs towards Rothesay and continue to the south end of Bute until you arrive at Mount Stuart.
Opening Hours and Seasons:
Mount Stuart welcomes visitors from April to October, with specific hours varying throughout the season. Check their official website or contact them directly for up-to-date information.
Guided Tours:
To fully appreciate Mount Stuart's history and beauty, opt for a guided tour. Knowledgeable guides lead you through various rooms, providing insights into architecture, art collections, and historical significance.
Booking Tickets:
Secure your spot by booking tickets in advance, either online or by contacting the ticketing office directly.
Accessibility Information:
While Mount Stuart aims for accessibility, some areas may pose challenges due to historic features. Check their accessibility information or contact them for specific concerns.
Photography Policy:
Capture memories but refrain from flash photography inside the house for preservation. Always ask for permission in sensitive areas.